There’s a web abbreviation that I took a long time to learn, called “TIL” or “Today, I learned”. Well, I’m gonna call this one closer to “Today, I giggled” :P.
Trojan Room coffee pot – Wikipedia
And somehow this makes perfect sense to me.
Things that make me mildly sad:
- That when I got my first CD-Burner, CD-Rs were so expensive we could only do backups about once or twice a year.
- I bought a spindle of like a 100 DVD-Rs less than a decade ago, and I may not be able to use them up before I did without stooping to using them for Frisbees and coasters.
- How I rarely need to use CD-ROM or DVD-ROM but inevitably
- Need CD at home because the drive won’t do a DVD, of course I only have DVD-Rs.
- Need a DVD at work because the data won’t fit a CD, of course I only have CD-Rs.
- That at this point the only reason to care how many discs I use (or waste) is the wear and tear on my BD burner.
To which I’ll add that time I saved $5 to $10 and got a CD-ROM only external drive instead of a DVD-ROM one was probably one of the dumbest ways I ever tried to save a few bucks š. The irksomeness of hauling it out of the closet aside, the USB enclosure my old Blu-ray drive has been in kind of…rocks.
Thus far, I have found System 7 rather interesting.
On the PowerBook Duo 230 AKA 30 year old Mac, I’ve got 7.5 running off a BlueSCSI mounted internally. Tech by Androda has a PowerBook configuration that comes with a lovely 3D printed bracket, which was easily mounted using the rails bolted to the original Quantum drive. The only real problem that I had was initializing the drive, in the end I opted to download a prepared blank image. As far as I can tell the difference versus dd’ing my own is Apple Partition Map, Eventually I need to find a nice disk utilities package that fits on a floppy, as the Disk Utils disk offers me little value beyond it boots and has a system folder.
Installing was fairly straight forward since I was able to build floppies using the PowerBook G3 AKA 20 year old Mac. No idea of how, but disk one appears to be bootable but ha sno system folder visible like the Disk Utils disk. The installer however kind of sucks. Attempting an easy install takes about 20 – 40 minutes of swapping 7 floppies, and then dies and deletes the entire staging area off the disk. So I went about doing a custom install piece by piece and determined that its the Apple Guide on diskette 7 that causes this. Also for some reason it follows a pattern of eject disk 1, ask for disk n, eject and ask for disk 1, eject and ask for disk n; whenever I first start installing some item from custom install. Making this whole process a pain in the ass. Once in a while it decided to want to floppies at once. So, while I kind of love how easy it is to get classic Mac OS to boot: I think the 7.5 installer sucked. It is however quite simple and easy to use, if you can get it to work :P. At 7 floppies plus a Disk Utils, it’s not too large a set either.
Beyond that however, it works superbly and for a machine old enough to have school aged children of its own, I find the Duo 230 quite snappy. The real pain was trying to get Stuffit Expander loaded, since getting the images to mount on my G3 was mostly an exercise in futility. Once I finally got the disk made, I both set the write protect tab and wrote a message about not losing the disk because it’s a pain to build. When I was putzing with Basillisk II on my OpenBSD machine it was fairly painless because I could just mount the image directly. In System 9.2.2, I ended up using grabbing the Virtual DVD-ROM/CD Utility off Macintosh Garden. Disk Copy and ShrinkWrap told me to eff myself. Trying to mount in Toast just froze the G3 such that not even the mouse could move. Never liked Roxio on Windows, and don’t think I care for it on Mac either. Needless to say I wasn’t happy getting StuffIt Expander onto my Duo!
One thing that remains to be determined is whether or not I care to migrate to System 7.5.5, or a larger internal image.
Testing 7.5.3 -> 7.5.5 in the emulator was a fairly painless experience. Give or take that it takes forever to unstuff large files compared to my Duo. The StuffIt archive is 70~80 meg. More general stuff in the emulator seems to suggest 7.5.3 improved performance on 68k processors, not just on the younger PowerPC processors. But overall seems less important without a PPC based Mac. Given the size is something like net install + 19 floopies + 3 update floppies, I’ll probably defer that until I have a working RaSCSI where I can just place the files rather than imaging a ton of diskettes.
Regarding the disk images, I’m less decided. I chose to setup BlueSCSI with a 250 MB image. Partly because I just wanted to see it work, and partly because I intend to have RaSCSI be an external drive to shuffle between systems. Considering the Duo came with a dead 160 MB drive and they apparently were sold in 80 MB and 120 MB configurations, I’d like to think 250 MB is a nice balance between the hardware’s era and large enough not to care. Between system folder, basic software, and copies of the floppy loaded setup files, I’m only using about 30 MB. I plan for RaSCSI to present a large 4 GB volume, possibly several; but I could just as easily use that internally.
One oddity: the maximum date. Despite HFS having a limit of 2040 for its max date, I couldn’t go past 2019 without the date wrapping around to 2019 in the control panel. Apparently this was a bug in the date/time control panel, and someone wrote a nifty control panel app that lets you set the date correctly.
While I will admit that I didnāt have high expectations for a USB floppy drive, I had expected itās life span to be measured weeks, or at least days of I/O time. Over the past 3 weeks Iāve probably had disks in use for less than 6 hours. The MTBF had been much poorer than Iām used to for floppies, but relatively effective.
On the positive side thanks to 20 year old Mac and 30 year old Mac, I actually have points of reference without having to drive to work and borrow my āOldā machines internal IDE floppy drive. The Wallstreet series seems to have a really great floppy drive compared to the Tendak USB drive, even if the PowerBookās drive is old enough to walk into a bar and buy a beer.
The real question I suppose, is do I want to try and get a replacement while the drive is within Amazonās window (as well, as should be under warranty from the manufacturer). Or do I just want to take it apart and putz with it, since the replacement will probably be just as awesome.
Simple solutions to simple problems
When I moved, I ran two cables around the room. One to behind the headboard as a spare in case I re-arrange the room someday, and another to the corner my desk is on. My desk and bed being along the same wall with desk and headboard at opposite corners.
One of the things that has irked me all these years is how much of a tight fit this is. To pull my desktop forward to access the cables: I’ve had to yank the Ethernet. Very annoying. On the flipside when screwing with old computers, sometimes Ethernet is a better deal than Wi-Fi. Thus the cable under the headboard has been handy. Give or take that I usually end up wearing out my knees since the headboard isn’t handy, and the dog takes my spot while I’m putzing with computers.
Finally I’ve caved in any decided there shall be a gigabit switch at my desk instead of a direct connection to my gateway across the room.
Since the $20 TP-Link 8-port gigabit switches I replaced some old HPs^, I opted for one of these TP-Link Lightwaves, It’s rare that I need more than one port at my desk, and space is at a far greater premium than ports^^. Damned thing is tiny as can be. I envision its mounting place to be Velcro to the back of my monitor, but for now a simple picture hanger provides an immediate solution.
And for good measure of testing: Rimiru streaming Netflix from its 1 Gbit/s Ethernet while my PowerBook G3 runs off its 10 Mbit/s Ethernet for grabbing some floppy images for the ‘ol Duo.
^ HP makes some good switches. These worked great as long as you didn’t do a lot of multicast, but had a bigger problem. Turn off a computer and all ports would experience batshit packet loss until you turn that machine back on or unplug it from the switch. Weird.
^^Unlike at work where there’s more space and far more equipment. My home is a more wireless network centric place :P.
Sometimes to fix a 30 year old computer, you’re better off buying a 20 year old computer to help
A few months ago, I picked up a 12″ iBook G4/800 MHz to use as an OpenBSD/macppc experiment. After the Duo’s power supply went poof, I was rather hesitant to spend $30+ on a replacement that I would likely have to split open and re-cap to avoid a repeat of said smelly poof. Since the iBook G4s still used a 24 volt charger, and mine already had a replacement tip scarily attached. I decided to buy another G4 charger as a replacement, and attempt to graft the Duo’s tip onto my G4’s charger.
Sadly this proved unsuccessful, be it my limited soldering skills or the problem of figuring it how the old replacement tip’s three wires were adapted to the G4’s one wire and ground, it didn’t work. So I decided to do a bit of research. Excluding a brief difference in the 500 series it seems that Apple largely kept 24 volt chargers from at least the early ’90s PowerBooks up until the early Clamshell G3 models with the hockey puck, and swapped tips towards ’99 or ’01. It’s kind of hard to find one of the hockey puck chargers, and much like the iBook G3, I really can’t decide if the design was genius or silly.
In my efforts to dig up a replacement charger, I ended up buying a 20 year old mac to help me fix a 30 year old mac. Got a good price on a 14″ PowerBook G3 series, which from the 233 MHz/512K/etc on the bottom I suspect may be a PDQ. Since this machine happens to have both 10BASE-T Ethernet and a floppy drive, it’s made it really handy to try and deal with abusing software onto floppy diskette with disk copy. The machine even came with a CD-ROM module, user manual, emergency guide, and some spare floppies.
Opening up the PowerBook G3, I really, really, really hope that whoever designed the internals won an industry award or at least got a huge bonus. Eject the expansion bays, push the switches and pop goes the keyboard. Unscrew and yonk the heatsink and vola memory, hard drive, right there. Makes working on my old ThinkPad (and pretty much very laptop I’ve ever touched) look hard by comparison.
Not sure if anyone fathomed how useful the mix of old and new ports on the Wallstreet/PDQ would be for something like this. Having 10 Mbit/s Ethernet and a version of Internet Explorer 5 that’s better than my first Pentium machines kind of made my chuckle, but is quite handy. While at the same time it has the same kind of ADB keyboard/mouse, HDI-30 external SCSI, and mdin serial ports my Duo has. Not sure what to make of the S-Video, other than to remember way back then we couldn’t afford TVs now computers with that š. On the positive side looks like it also has a real VGA instead of the whatever-the-heck-Apple-dsubs were that my Duo has.
 |
| Duo 230 off G3 charger |
More importantly the M4402/1998 charger works as a perfect replacement for my blown M7783/1992 charger ^_^.
In some ways, I feel kind of bad about how modern devices are likely to age. Booting up my old Galaxy Tab S3 for the first time in literally a year and a month, I wanted to replace my old Kindle Fire HDX 7 as a spare clock. In doing so, I couldn’t help but think about how much of the device will be rendered useless in a few decades rather than obsoleted.
Software and Networks seal our fates
Software wise I’ve mostly found the death of old machines to be network centric. Things like being unable to run a modern TLS protocol for HTTPS, or the utter lack of a web browser capable of stripping down the modern web. That’s what really kills a computer for most people. In the case of my project to fix up a 30 year old PowerBook, I suspect that finding software to study the system won’t be too hard. Thanks to the Old Mac Software Archive. In the case of Android and iOS, I expect folks will simply be humbly screwed. That or websites like APKMirror will become more vital if you want to experience old ‘droids in a few decades. Weirdos amongst us who like old computers aside, many people are simply stuck with obsolete equipment for years. Either by choice or need.
Over the past two decades we’ve seen a significant shift towards applications that rely upon remote services to function. Built on top of that the trend for The Network to be The Center of what we do has probably been building for the last four decades. By the time I first met Windows, and left Tandy DOS behind, it was already common for personal computers to be online via dial up modem, or if you lived in the right neighborhood: a broad banned modem. As a kid, most of my software came from the school supply stores which probably had more 5 1/2 floppies in the late 90s than anyone wants to admit. As an adult, many of us are reliant upon Networks rather than Applications.
Case in point: a large part of why I regard my tablet as my main computer: I do most of my common stuff on it. Surfing the web isn’t really a desktop task for me: it’s a lean back with a tablet kind of task.
Once applications like the web browser and news apps cease to function, most modern devices won’t be so easily revisited. In twenty years, I’m not even sure that Android and iOS will have a means of getting past first power on when they are no longer able to phone home and login. The trend has been that strong for networks to matter more than the devices that use them.
I don’t think that you should use an old computer to do all your stuff. It’s kind of crazy to expect a decade plus old version of anything to securely sign into diddly squat. But it would be sad for such issues to prevent you from playing with an old piece of hardware. Whether that piece of hardware belongs in a museum or in a landfill.
Hardware ages and becomes brittle
One reason that I ended up choosing a PowerBook is because I don’t really know the classic Mac operating system. Another reason is the hardware isn’t totally kaput yet. Most of the 386/486 era laptops that were Super Expensive and Super Kool when I was a kid are basically gone, and it’s kind of depressing even looking around for ones that are functional. Vintage Macintosh systems are pretty beat up as well, but you can actually find plenty of them, and if you’re willing to pay and not to specific in model: can likely acquire one that works out of the box. Last time I looked for comparable PCs, I found myself amazed by just how many PC vendors don’t even exist anymore!
I’m not sure how long plastic is meant to last. Pretty sure the result is somewhere between too darn short and holy crap long depending on whether you need it to hold up, or whether you’re waiting for it to break down in a landfill. I’ve always found it kind of impressive how long “Stuff” lasts. Also perhaps depressing if you consider a typical Styrofoam cup will probably outlive us all. Perhaps that’s actually a better reason to seek glass and aluminum than embrace plastic: devices fall apart with age and decompose with corrosion.
For one thing: internal batteries. Given enough time just about any battery is likely to swell up, leak, or poof. My old Galaxy S5’s true end was when the battery would heat and swell and pop the back cover off. In a more modern device like my Galaxy Tab S3: it’ll simply spit the damn thing, probably like an egg going splat. I’m sure the glass of the screen won’t survive tremendous battery swells. GOD only knows about leaking inside devices that aren’t readily taken apart.
Old ass computers on the flip side, in contemporary definitions of oldness, at least hail from an era where machines were expected to be taken apart. Today increasingly machines are designed to be written off if damaged, or are so hard to take apart that it’s better left to a technician than the regular consumer. Being designed to be taken apart, older machines are obviously easier to take apart and put back together again.
Which in some ways makes me glad that most laptops I’ve owned have removable batteries, both the main and an internal coin cell. Versus “Oh wow, is that keyboard sticking up at a funny angle and cracked the screen? Didn’t know a lid could look like that…”; which is what I expect today’s svelte laptops to look like if you leave them on a shelf for thirty or forty years.
Now here’s a useful post on 68kmla, which also solves one of my curious questions.
When I mostly dismantled my Duo 230, one of the things I found odd was the lack of capacitors. Admittingly, while most of the interesting stuff on motherboards this side of my birthdate are implemented by ICs, it is kind of hard to make such a logic board without some capacitors :P.
Looks like they’re mostly clustered near the DC power input socket and the serial port. Which is located underneath the northern end of the frame, where the hinge mounts. The square piece, looks like the serial port behind the flip down leg next to the power socket. Despite going far enough to remove the display panel, I didn’t take that much of the frame apart in my efforts to inspect the insides. Honestly, I was just surprised by the lack of plastic disintegrating the moment I unscrewed the damned thing š¤£.
Note to self on the eradication of ants
Always go somewhere else and get the usual Amdro ant block or fire ant killer. Never buy the Amdro quick kill granules. The natives won’t fall for that shit.
On the flipside whatever reason fire ant killer seems more enticing to the natives, at least the small black apartment invading ants we typically see in this part of Georgia aren’t like the red fire ants I grew up with in Floridia. Those were the kind of fuckers you sit in the car, look down, go oh my fuck, and run screaming with legs full of ants wishing there were a canal nearby so you could make like a cartoon character.
By contrast the ones here tend to be highly persistent, but are only in it for the food. Not aggressive toward man and beast, so much as they will find clever ways to route themselves from across a yard to the other side of a building if they smell fooooood.
Fuck.
In picking up a Pi Zero W in prep’ for project Power Book, I ended up buying a Raspberry Pi 4 while I was at Microcenter. Been wanting one for years, but every time I’ve talked myself into it, they didn’t happen to have the one I wanted. Well this time they had a whole bushel of the newer variant with 8 GB of RAM.
Running the Raspberry Pi Diagnostics on my old card, basically made the tool shout “Hey, are you kidding me or is this made out of cardboard?”
pi@magic:~ $ cat rpdiags.txt
Raspberry Pi Diagnostics – version 0.9
Fri May 7 11:19:27 2021
Test : SD Card Speed Test
Run 1
prepare-file;0;0;6763;13
seq-write;0;0;7742;15
rand-4k-write;0;0;1055;263
rand-4k-read;4820;1205;0;0
Sequential write speed 7742 KB/sec (target 10000) – FAIL
Note that sequential write speed declines over time as a card is used – your card may require reformatting
Random write speed 263 IOPS (target 500) – FAIL
Random read speed 1205 IOPS (target 1500) – FAIL
Run 2
prepare-file;0;0;7121;13
seq-write;0;0;7514;14
rand-4k-write;0;0;921;230
rand-4k-read;4861;1215;0;0
Sequential write speed 7514 KB/sec (target 10000) – FAIL
Note that sequential write speed declines over time as a card is used – your card may require reformatting
Random write speed 230 IOPS (target 500) – FAIL
Random read speed 1215 IOPS (target 1500) – FAIL
Run 3
prepare-file;0;0;8261;16
seq-write;0;0;8197;16
rand-4k-write;0;0;303;75
rand-4k-read;5050;1262;0;0
Sequential write speed 8197 KB/sec (target 10000) – FAIL
Note that sequential write speed declines over time as a card is used – your card may require reformatting
Random write speed 75 IOPS (target 500) – FAIL
Random read speed 1262 IOPS (target 1500) – FAIL
Test FAIL
Since my old MicroSD card is literally crap, and always has been crap. And I can’t remember how far back that particular SanDisk goes, except at the time 8 GB was a fair price to capacity rating. I decided to splurge on a nice new Samsung card.
pi@victory:~ $ cat rpdiags.txt
Raspberry Pi Diagnostics – version 0.9
Fri Aug 6 20:15:09 2021
Test : SD Card Speed Test
Run 1
prepare-file;0;0;28432;55
seq-write;0;0;28248;55
rand-4k-write;0;0;4178;1044
rand-4k-read;14747;3686;0;0
Sequential write speed 28248 KB/sec (target 10000) – PASS
Random write speed 1044 IOPS (target 500) – PASS
Random read speed 3686 IOPS (target 1500) – PASS
Test PASS
So much nicer š.
Here is the Crystal Disk Mark on the Samsung when I first plugged it into my PC.
——————————————————————————
CrystalDiskMark 8.0.4 x64 (C) 2007-2021 hiyohiyo
Crystal Dew World: https://crystalmark.info/
——————————————————————————
* MB/s = 1,000,000 bytes/s [SATA/600 = 600,000,000 bytes/s]
* KB = 1000 bytes, KiB = 1024 bytes
[Read]
SEQ 1MiB (Q= 8, T= 1): 95.913 MB/s [ 91.5 IOPS] < 86494.56 us>
SEQ 1MiB (Q= 1, T= 1): 94.791 MB/s [ 90.4 IOPS] < 11043.40 us>
RND 4KiB (Q= 32, T= 1): 9.103 MB/s [ 2222.4 IOPS] < 14370.86 us>
RND 4KiB (Q= 1, T= 1): 7.239 MB/s [ 1767.3 IOPS] < 564.70 us>
[Write]
SEQ 1MiB (Q= 8, T= 1): 67.578 MB/s [ 64.4 IOPS] <122501.70 us>
SEQ 1MiB (Q= 1, T= 1): 68.031 MB/s [ 64.9 IOPS] < 15374.68 us>
RND 4KiB (Q= 32, T= 1): 3.327 MB/s [ 812.3 IOPS] < 39199.31 us>
RND 4KiB (Q= 1, T= 1): 2.873 MB/s [ 701.4 IOPS] < 1423.66 us>
Profile: Default
Test: 1 GiB (x5) [E: 0% (0/60GiB)]
Mode:
Time: Measure 5 sec / Interval 5 sec
Date: 2021/08/06 20:02:47
OS: Windows 10 Professional [10.0 Build 19043] (x64)
I’ve actually owned hard drives slower :P.